Ascent of Evghenii Korzhenevskoy Peak (7105m)

 

Moscow – Dushanbe – Djirgital – Moskvina Glade – Summit - Moscow

 

Evghenii Korzhenevxkoy Peak (or just “Korzhenevsky” as Russian climbers call it, stands 13km north of Komminizma (Communism) Peak, in the northern part of the Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. The first scientist to see and measure the peak (on the 23rd of August in 1910) was a Russian geographer, Nikolay Korzhenevsky.

He named it after his wife Evgheniya, but as an official geographic name it appeared on the maps only in 1927.

The first successful attempt was made in 1957, on the 22nd of August, and the climbers (team from St.Petersburg led by A. Ugarov) went from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the north ridge.

The climbing routes on the peak differ greatly: about 10 variants of difficulty. The easiest and safest one is the classic: from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the south ridge.

Important!

1. In case the group size does not come to six, we reserve the right to raise the price.
2. Trip’s starting date is preliminary. It depends on the local helicopter flight schedule and will be fixed not later than 40 days prior to leaving for Bishkek

 

 

Leader-guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest Summiter)

Extra guide for the ascent

All local permits and registrations

All group land transfers according to the program

Bus drive from Dushanbe to Djirgital (8-10hr)

Return helicopter flight from Djirgital to BC on Moskvina Glade with luggage allowance of 30kg per person

Hotels accommodation (2*, 2 nights)

Food-stuffs, gas, stoves and tents for high camps

Group climbing gear

Using fixed ropes on the route

T-shirt with the 7 Summits Club logo

Service in Moskvina Glade BC includes:

accommodation in tents for 2-3

three meals a day

shower, sauna, toilet, left luggage

medical service

walkie-talkies for climbing

 

 

- bringing loads by porters from 4200m to 5300m (8euro per 1 kg); from 5300m to 5800m (12euro); from 5800m to 6300m (20euro); over 6300m – 28euro

- return airfare to Bishkek

- porters for personal stuff: from 4200

- personal equipment

- medical insurance

- Kyrghiz visa

- overweight on helicopter flights: 2.5euro per 1 kg

- direct flight Dushanbe – Djirgital: 200euro per person one way

 

When going to 7000m do not rely on your youth (in case you are young), or on your well-preserved health (if you are not in your first youth)! For several months do more or less systematic training, simple jogging is perfect for that. Despite the fact that the route is not technical, two factors, the unpredictable Pamirs’ weather and the altitude, can make the climb quite a challenge even for seasoned climbers. You should not regard it as just a “snow plod”. The success depends on your fitness, well planned acclimatization period, right set of gear, good guides and, last but not least, a bit of luck.

 

 

Passport
2 photos 3x4
Kyrghiz and Tajik visas (if necessary)

Flight to Djirgital in a Russian aircraft AN-24 (or drive in a comfortable minivan)
Flight to Moskvina Glade in a Russian helicopter MI-9

Hotel** in Dushanbe
Large stationary tents (for 2) in BC
Strong double tents (for 2-3) in high camps

In stationary camp 3 meals a day in a large comfortable mess-tent. The food is prepared by professional cook (vegetarian menu is available)
In high camps meals are cooked on gas stoves with the help of guides. The water is melted snow.

Guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest summiter)

Doctor in BC. Our guide will have a first aid kit. We strongly recommend to bring with your own specific medicines you might need. Besides, we recommend to start taking some vitamin complex 3 weeks before the expedition. A very good idea would be to test and acclimatize yourself, say, on Elbrus (in June).

As in all high mountain weather is quite unpredictable, but July and August are the most favorable months for the ascent.

Meals in towns
Food-stuffs for high camps
Direct flight Dushanbe – Djirgital: 200euro per person one way

Large expedition bag (optional)
Warm sleeping bag (good for -20°C)
Foam pad
Crampons (we recommend Grivel G12)
Rucksack 80-90 liters
Rucksack 40-60 liters
Harness (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Self belay device
Screwgate karabiners - 3-4 (Petzl, BD or Yatis)
Jumar ascender (Petzl)
Collapsible ski poles
Thermos
Rappel device
Ice axe
Head torch
Eating utensil
Personal washing implements
Trekking shoes
Plastic boots (“Everest” by Millet or “Scarpa Vega”)
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore Tex jacket with a large hood
Gore Tex trousers (semi-overalls preferably)
Windblock jacket
Windblock trousers
Jacket “Polartec - 100” - 2 items
Warm underwear - 2 sets
Personal underwear
Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
Thinsulate gloves
Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Balaclava
Warm hat
Windblock face mask
UV protection glasses (plastic, not glass!)
Ski goggles (preferably)
Gaiters
Pee bottle
Accumulators and accessories for your camera(s)