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Ascent of Lenin Peak (7134m)

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Weather at:
Lenin Peak

Object map:
Lenin Peak

Regions: Kyrgyzstan
Objects: Mt. Lenin Peak (7134m)
Service: Full service
Program's difficulty: 6, mid difficult ( technical 2 + altitudinal 4 )
Price: 2 890 EUR
Deposit for reservations 500 EUR
Full payment 30 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!

The price for the program is growing steadily!
By the fact of prepayment you fix the price!
So hurry with your prepayment!
Dates ( Days 22 / Nights 21 )
July 18 - August 08

Trip overview

 

Bishkek - Osh - Base Camp (3600m) - Summit (7134m) - Base Camp - Osh - Bishkek

 

Why go there?

 

Lenin Peak is the best start for the "Snow Leopard" climbing program (all five seven-thousanders of the former USSR) and also the best initiation into high altitude climbing and into eight-thousanders’ world accordingly. The "Snow Leopard" title used to be one of the highest sports titles in the former Soviet Union.

Lenin Peak, set in extremely beautiful, powerful scenery, is probably the easiest 7000m peak in the world. As to the technical difficulties of the classic route (from north), it is a straightforward climb, similar in grade to those on Mont Blanc and Elbrus. Yet, the mountain is really high (2300m higher than Mont Blanc and 1500m than Elbrus), so it is by no means a "snow plod". Normally there is a trail in snow between the camps and from the assault camp to the summit, yet, the long final ridge has a couple of exposed pitches. These are climbed roped up, moving together. The glacier between BC and Camp 2 is crevassed and there is some risk (not high) of avalanches.

 

 

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek International Aiport (the capital of Kirghizia), waiting for an hour or so for the connection flight to
Day 2 Transfer from Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp. 8-9 hours' journey on a rough road, 280km. Accommodation in stationary tents in BC. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3 Acclimatizing climb of Petrovskogo Peak (4830m).
Day 4 Rest and preparation
Day 5 Walk to Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 6 Walk to Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 8 Descent to Camp 1.
Day 9 Descent to BC.
Day 10 Rest and preparations
Day 11 Rest and preparations
Day 12 Walk to Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 13 Walk to Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 14 Ascent to Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 15 Summit day with descent to Camp 3.
Day 16 Descent to Camp 1.
Day 17 Descent to BC
Day 18 Reserve day to make up for a spell of bad weather.
Day 19 Transfer to Osh. Guest House accommodation.
Day 20 Fly to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
Day 21 Flight home.

Price includes

- leader-guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest Summiter)

- assistant guide(s) for the ascent (if group size is over 4)

- porters for group equipment

- meeting and seeing off in the airports

- all transfers according to the program

- air tickets Bishkek - Osh - Bishkek

- hotels 2* B&B (2 nights in Osh, 1 night in Bishkek)

- local registration and border zone permit

- meals during Osh - BC - Osh transfer

- tents in high camps

- dried food for high camps

- gas stoves and fuel

- kitchen utensils

- Accommodation (tents for 2-3) and food (3 meals a day) in Base Camp and Camp 1. The number of days with the full service in BC is unlimited within the program, but cannot be more than 16. Only 4 nights and 4 days with full board in Camp 1 are included. Service in the kitchen: cook, mess tent, tables, chairs, a mess kit, gas stoves, hot water for drinking and washing in Base Camp and Camp 1.

 

Price does not include

- return airfare to Bishkek

- porters for personal stuff

- personal equipment

- medical insurance

- Kyrghiz visa

 

Good advice

When going to 7000m do not rely on your youth (in case you are young), or on your well-preserved health (if you are not in your first youth)! For several months do more or less systematic training, simple jogging is perfect for that. Despite the fact that the route is not technical, two factors, the unpredictable Pamirs’ weather and the altitude, can make the climb quite a challenge even for seasoned climbers. You should not regard it as just a “snow plod”. The success depends on your fitness, well planned acclimatization period, right set of gear, good guides and, last but not least, a bit of luck.

Necessary travel papers (documents)

Passport
2 photos 3x4
Kyrghiz visa

By air and by land

All transfers according to the program (in comfortable minivans, or, for rough roads, in 4WD vehicles («UAZ», «KAMAZ», «Ural» )
Flights Bishkek - Osh - Bishkek (AN-24)

Accommodation

Hotels 2* B&B (2 nights in Osh, 1 night in Bishkek)
In camps strong double good (for 2-3)

Meals

In Bishkek and Osh breakfast only
In stationary camp 3 times a day. The food is prepared by professional cook (vegetarian menu is available)
In high camps meals are cooked by guides

Staff

Guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest summiter)

Health and medical insurance

Our guide will have a first aid kit. We strongly recommend to bring with your own specific medicines you might need. Besides, we recommend to start taking some vitamin complex 3 weeks before the expedition. A very good idea would be to test and acclimatize yourself, say, on Elbrus (in June).

Weather

As in all high mountain weather is quite unpredictable, but July and August are the most favorable months for the ascent.

Extra expenses

Meals in towns
Tips for local staff

Personal gear

Sleeping bag good for -15°C
Foam pad
Crampons (we recommend Grivel G12)
Rucksack 80-90 liters
Rucksack 40-60 liters
Harness
Self belay device
Screwgate karabiners - 3
Jumar ascender
Collapsible ski poles
Thermos
Rappel device
Ice axe
Head torch
Eating utensil
Personal washing implements
Trekking shoes
Plastic boots (“Everest”, Millet, preferably)
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore Tex jacket with a large hood
Gore Tex trousers (semi-overalls preferably)
Windblock jacket
Windblock trousers
Jacket “Polartec - 100” - 2 items
Warm underwear - 2 sets
Personal underwear
Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
Thinsulate gloves
Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Balaclava
Warm hat
Windblock face mask
UV protection glasses (plastic, not glass!)
Ski goggles (preferably)
Gaiters
Pee bottle
Accumulators and accessories for your camera(s)
Clothing
Shoes
Equipment
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