Ascent of Pobeda Peak (7439m)

Moscow – Bishkek (Alma-Ata) – Karkara – South Inylshek Glacier - Summit - Moscow

 There are several climbing routes of different grades on Pobeda Peak. The most popular are two: by the East Ridge from the Chon-Teren Pass and (the classic) via West Pobeda (Vazha Pshavela Peak) from the Dikiy Pass. 

The terrain from South Inylchek BC to Camp 1 (4500m) is easy and only the last five or six hundred meters you have to cross some crevasses. From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5000m) climbing starts in earnest: to get to the Dikiy Pass you have to climb the steep ice-fall and do it quickly, due to the danger of avalanches from the North Face of Pobeda’s North Face.
The way from Camp 2 and Camp 3 (snow caves at 5800m) is along an easy snow ridge, but moving from Camp 3 to Camp 4 (6400m) you have to climb rocks of moderate difficulty. A steep ice-snow slope leads to Camp 5 (6918m), which sits on the southern (Chinese) side of the summit ridge. It is the assault camp and you have to walk 2km at an altitude of 7000m along this snow ridge to get to the foot of the summit pyramid and then all the way back to Camp 5.

It will be a hard day, but the views from there are worth all the trouble and effort. The ascent is not technical, yet, it goes without saying, the unpredictable Tien Shan weather together with the altitude can say its decisive word. There are three answers to these two challenges: your good form, adequate gear and of course correct acclimatization. The latter demands several altitude outings, which are likely to be rather hard at first.  

Leader-guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest Summiter) 

all group transfers according to the program

Hotels accommodation (2* B&B, 2 nights)

Accommodation in base camps

Meals in towns, base camps and on the way to/from them

Briefing on details of climbing routes

Fixed ropes on the route

Radio contact with BC when climbing

Helicopter flights from Miyda-Adyr (Karkara) to BC on the South Inylchek Glacier and back. Luggage allowance is 30kg per person (1kg of overweight costs 3euro)

All local permits and registrations

Tents for high camps

Gas cartridges and petrol for stoves

Service in North Inylchek Glacier BC includes:

accommodation in tents for 2-3

ecological fees

three meals a day

shower, sauna, toilet, left luggage

doctor

electricity: 220V; 50H

registration with Rescue Service

long distance radio contact

walkie-talkies for climbing

Food for climbing and acclimatization outings

Return airfare to Bishkek

Porters

Personal climbing equipment

Medical insurance

Kyrghiz visa

Overweight in helicopter flights

Necessary info:

1. In case the group size does not come even to four, we reserve the right to raise the price.

2. Trip’s starting date is preliminary. It depends on the local helicopter flight schedule and will be fixed not later than 40 days prior to leaving for Bishkek