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Northern Summit of Everest - Changtse(7680m)

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Weather at:
Everest North Col, Everest BC (Tibet), Everest, Changtse (North Peak of Everest)

Object map:
Everest North Col, Everest BC (Tibet), Everest, Changtse (North Peak of Everest)

Regions: China (Tibet)
Service: Full service
Program's difficulty: 8.5, difficult ( technical 3 + altitudinal 5.5 )
Group size: 4-8 members
Price: 15 090 USD
Deposit for reservations 3 000 USD
Full payment 60 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 60 days!

Buy it CHEAPER - TODAY!!!
Next month the price will rise.
The price is fixed at the moment of prepayment.
Dates ( Days 35 / Nights 34 )
April 10 - May 14

Trip overview

Kathmandu - Lhasa - Xigatse- Xegar – Base Camp (BC) – Advanced Base Camp (ABC) - North Col (NC) - Summit – Dzangmu - Kathmandu

Why go there?

This is true Everest, even so it’s only Northern Peak. The majestic mountain of 7550 meters is staying high above the North Col and clearly visible from the route of ascent of Everest. We choose the route of ascent from the North Col. It was climbed one-two times before us. Changtse - is perhaps the best panoramic point on view of Mount Everest. And at the same time, it is a separate beautiful mountain.

If you have some doubts about your being ready to try and climb Everest, then the best option for you is to try yourself on a less difficult and dangerous route: Everest Northern Peak (7550 m) via  Everest North Col (7,000m). 


Our expedition starts in Katmandu: we are all meeting in the Yak&Yeti 5***** hotel on April 1.
Members arriving by different flights are met at the airport and brought to the hotel. The team will number 18-20 in all. 

 

Three days later on April 4 we start for Tibet. From Katmandu we drive to Zangmu (2350m), Niyalam (3750m) and Xegar(4200m). We have one day of rest in Xegar for acclimatization and the next day we drive to Everest BC (5200m). After 2-3 days in BC we start with yaks to IBC (5800m). The next day we proceed to ABC (6400m) where we pitch a camp similar to our BC.
A days later, after our Sherpas have pitched Camp 1 on the North Col (7000m), we move there and spend one night for acclimatization. It usually takes 5-7 hours up and 2-3 hours down to ABC.

When we trying to get acclimatization, our Sherpas made a route, fixing ropes along the South Ridge of Changtse. Then we are waiting for the best weather forecast, and start to climb. If there will be no severe wind, this climb will be just great plesure and panoramic view from the summit is just the best to imagine.

 

 

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel “Vhaishali”****. Party in the evening.
Day 2 Katmandu, waiting for Tibet visa
Day 3 Flight from Katmandu to Lhasa (3650m) and transfer to hotel.
Day 4 Day in Lhasa (3650m). Sightseeing: Potala Palace, Norbulinka Summer Palace & Metzekhang.
Day 5 Driving to Xigatse (3900m), visiting Shalu Monastery and Tashilunpo in Xigatse en route.
Day 6 Driving to Xegar (4200m)
Day 7 Day of acclimatization and rest in Xegar
Day 8 Driving to Everest BC (5200m)
Day 9-12 At the Base Camp (5200m)
Day 13 Moving from Base Camp to the Interim Base Camp (5900m)
Day 14 To Advanced Base Camp (6500m)
Day 15 Rest and acclimatization in the ABC camp.
Day 16 Descent to BC (5100m)
Day 17-18 Rest in the Base camp
Day 19 Base Camp to the Intermediate Base Camp (5800m)
Day 20 Moving to Advanced Base Camp (6400m)
Day 21 Rest and acclimatization in the ABC camp.
Day 22 The ascent to the North Col (7000m). Descent to ABC (6400m). 8-10 hours return.
Day 23-27 Staying in the ABC camp, preparation for the climb
Day 28 The ascent to the North Col (7000m).
Day 29 Climbing day. We start from the North Col and go via the South Ridge to the northern Summit of Everest (7550 m). Snow, ice, mixt - fixed ropes. Descent to the ABC camp
Day 30 Descent to BC (5100m)
Day 31-32 Departure from BC, Drive to Zangmu. Night in a hotel.
Day 33 From Zangmu to Katmandu. Night in a hotel.
Day 34 Staying in Katmandu. Night in a hotel.
Day 35 Depart from Katmandu

Price includes

Experienced expedition leader from "7 Summits Club"
Tibet visa Permit for North Col
Meeting in the airport
Necessary transfers in Katmandu
Airfare Kathmandu-Lhasa 
Bus and truck for the loads to Zangmu and back
Jeeps and lorry for the participants of the team from Lhasa to Base Camp and back to Zangmu
1 Yaks per expedition member BC-ABC and 1 Yak per member ABC-BC
Hotel in Katmandu Yak&Yeti 5***** for 3 nights before and 2 nights after expedition in
double rooms
All hotels in Tibet
Breakfasts in Katmandu
All meals in Tibet
All meals in the BC
the ABC and for the ascent
Tents for the participants and maintenance staff in BC and ABC
Tent-kitchen in the BC and the ABC, tables and chairs
Fuel for preparing food in the BC and the ABC
Kitchen equipment and dishes in the BC and the ABC
2 Electricity generators-1 for BC and 1 for ABC
First-aid set
Chinese liaison officer
Nepalese cooks
Tibetan kitchen-boys
Ropes Ice screws
Team jacket windblock
Team T-shirts

Price does not include

Extra nights in Hotel in Katmandu
Flight to Katmandu
Personal equipment for the ascent
Lunches and dinners in Katmandu
Tips for the maintenance staff
Medical insurance
Nepal visas

Necessary travel papers (documents)

Tibet visa – we make group Tibet visa
Climbing Permit- we make special climbing permit for the North Col ascent

By air and by land

All necessary transfers in Katmandu
Transportation up to BC
1 Jeep for 4-5members (or minibus) and truck for luggage and staff for the participants of the team from Zangmu to the Base Camp and back
Transportation of the loads above BC
Yaks carry loads from BC to ABC:1 Yak (40 kg)per expedition member BC-ABC and 1 Yak (40 kg) per member ABC-BC.
Yaks carry all shared and personal expedition equipment.

Accommodation

Hotel Yak&Yeti 5***** in Katmandu - 5 nights in double rooms (3 nights before and 2 nights after expedition)
All hotels in Tibet – hotels *** in Lhasa, Zangmu, Nialam, Old Tingri; Xegar in 2-6 bed rooms
In BC and ABC - 1 tent for 1 member

Meals

Breakfasts in Katmandu (lunch and dinner are not included)
Food in Tibet – 3 times a day in restaurants
Food in the BC and in the ABC – 3 times a day
The food is prepared by Nepalese cooks and Tibetan Kitchen-boys on gas stoves in special kitchen tents.
You can also get here any amount of hot water for washing or boiled water for drinking.
We eat in spacious dining tents equipped with tables and chairs.

Staff

Experienced expedition leader from "7 Summits Club"
Chinese liaison officer
Cooks from Nepal - 1 for BC and 1 for ABC
Kitchen boy from Tibet – 1 for BC and 1 for ABC
Altitude Sherpas – 1 for 3 members for the ascent to the North Col

Health and medical insurance

We provide a big expedition first aid kit with all the necessary medicine, but we also recommend that you bring your own specific medicine.

Weather

In Everest region the weather is very changeable. Every day we get new weather forecast by Internet and choose the best period for acclimatization and ascent.

Extra expenses

Single accommodation in Katmandu (5 nights) – 300USD
Extra nights in the “Yak&Yeti”5***** hotel in Kathmandu in double rooms
Individual jeep transfer from BC to Jangmu – 800USD
Individual jeep transfer from Jangmu to Katmandu – 300USD
Outing from BC to Shigar (4000m) for rest – paid in cash on the spot
Extra mask and regulator (1 set) - 700USD
Extra oxygen 4 liters cylinder - 600USD
Delivery of extra cylinders to high camps – 150USD for one
Extra yak for personal equipment (40 kg maximum) from BC
to ABC or from ABC to BC – 150USD
Tips for BC and ABC staff – about 200USD per member

Internet, phone

Electricity:
In BC and in ABC we organize 220V with the help of generator and 12V with Solar batteries.
Each member will have a possibility to charge any electronic device
In Camps 5800m and 7000m - 12 V with Solar batteries

Walkie-Talkie:
On the route we use radios with 144.00 frequency. All guides and Sherpas will have Walkie-Talkie.

Telephone:
There is GSM in Everest BC (mobile coverage at 1800 frequency)
In Lhasa you will have a chance of buying local sim card of China Mobile
"Thuraya" satellite phone works fine evrywhere on the route.

Internet:

We will arrange 2 computers in BC with GPRS for commom use, but....
GPRS internet is pretty low. And everyone needs to work.

So we advise:

As long as we will have GPRS coverage your personal Communicators (palms) and Laptops will work fine
To do this you have to buy UNIVERSAL GPRS modem (modem which is not connected with any particular mobile operator).
Usually these modems have automatic setting for computers.
In Lhasa you will have a chance of buying China SIM card with unlimited internet (about 100 USD) and then insert it into your GPRS modem or communicator. Thus you will have your personal Internet.

Personal gear

Shared Equipment (provided by 7 Summits Club)
We provide all the shared equipment for the expedition.
Shared Equipment for BC and ABC (provided by 7 Summits Club):
Dining tent
Kitchen tent
Shower tent
Toilet tent Sleeping tent (1 for 1 member)
All kitchen utensils (gas-stoves, pots, etc.)
All kitchen equipment (plates, spoons, cups, tables, chairs)
Wash-stand
Wash tabs and detergents
Gas heater for dining tents
Tape-recorder
Satellite phone ($5 per 1 minute)
First-aid kit
Solar accumulator
Generator + fuel
All the necessary electric equipment (bulbs, sockets, etc.)

Approximate list of personal equipment you will need for the expedition:
Duffle bag
Sleeping bag
Foam pad
Gas lamp
Gas stove
Gas cylinders - 1-2 items
Personal items for washing
Your favorite games
Notebook (if necessary)

Technical Equipment for the ascent:
Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
Rucksack 70-80 liters
Rucksack 35-40 liters
Harness
Prussiks
Karabiners with screwgate lockers - 3 items
Jumar (ascender)
Telescope ski poles
Thermos
Rappel device
Ice Axe
Head lamp
Photo camera
Video camera and assessors
Accumulators

Equipment for body and feet:
Trekking shoes
Boots of Everest Millet type or doulbe plastic
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
Windblock jacket
Windblock trousers
Jacket "Polartec - 100" - 2 items
Warm underwear
Personal underwear
Polartec gloves
Thinsulate gloves
Thinsulate mittens
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Balaclava
Warm hat
Windblock face mask
UV glasses
Ski goggles (preferably)
Gaiters
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